I came to respect Remington’s gas autos because of one small, cheap part. On a frozen morning, a buddy’s 1100 started short-stroking in the blind. We popped the fore-end, found an O-ring that looked like a petrified rubber band, rolled on a fresh seal, and the gun ran clean for the rest of the day. Lesson learned: these guns are soft-shooting, trustworthy, and they pay you back if you understand the system.
Quick take: 1100 vs 11-87
- Both are gas-operated and famously soft in recoil. Remington’s testing pegged the 1100 at about 40 percent less felt recoil than other autoloaders and roughly 50 percent less than fixed-action guns of its era.
- Think of the 11-87 as an evolved 1100 with durability tweaks and a pressure-management feature that lets the 12 gauge run both 2 3/4 and 3 inch shells in one setup.
- The 11-87 12 gauge Super Magnum adds 3 1/2 inch capability and uses a barrel seal activator for 2 3/4 inch loads. Remove that activator for 3 and 3 1/2 inch shells.
- Later 1100s and essentially all 11-87 field barrels commonly use RemChoke screw-in tubes. Early 1100s are often fixed choke.
Gas system basics and upkeep
Both models bleed gas through ports in the barrel into a piston assembly around the magazine tube. That pressure moves the action while smoothing recoil into a long, easy push instead of a jab. The tradeoff is fouling: the same gas carries residue into the gas parts and onto the tube.
Factory guidance is simple and worth following:
- Keep the magazine tube and piston parts clean and lightly oiled. Over-lubrication invites gunk, especially in cold, damp conditions or with dirty ammo.
- After storage, wipe excess oil from the gas parts before shooting.
- Have the gun inspected annually by the factory or an authorized service center if you want a pro eyes-on wear check.
For diagrams and step-by-step basics, the official owner’s manual is a great reference with clear callouts.
Remington Model 1100 and 11-87 Owner’s Manual
The O-ring barrel seal
Remington calls it the barrel seal. It lives on the mag tube in front of the piston and does what its name says: it helps seal gas so the action cycles with authority. When it dries out, cracks, flattens, or goes missing, the gun starts to get sluggish, then fails to eject.
Watch for:
- Short-stroking or weak ejection on loads that normally run
- Spent shells that barely clear the port
- A seal that looks glossy, squared-off, brittle, or cracked
Fixing it is easy. Slide off the fore-end, remove the barrel, roll the old seal off with your fingers, and roll a fresh one on. Avoid sharp tools. A film of oil on your fingertips is enough. Barrel seals are inexpensive and sold in multipacks, so keep a few in your kit.
11-87 Super Magnum setup explained
Two factory notes matter on the 11-87 12 gauge Super Magnum:
- Use the barrel seal activator for 2 3/4 inch loads. Remove it for 3 inch and 3 1/2 inch shells. That small ring lives in the gas stack and changes how the system seals with lighter loads.
- The 11-87 12 gauge Super Magnum does not use a gas cylinder collar that appears elsewhere in parts diagrams.
If a Super Mag runs light one day and balks the next, check the activator first. The manual’s illustrations make its position clear.
Barrels, chokes, and chamber markings
Barrels tell the story on these guns. Early 1100s were often fixed choke. By the late 1980s, RemChoke tubes were being added to many 1100 variants, and the 11-87 lineup leaned hard into screw-in chokes from the start.
Buyer tips that save time:
- Check the barrel for chamber length and match your ammo accordingly. If a barrel says 2 3/4 inch, do not assume it is happy with 3 inch shells just because it fits the receiver.
- Inspect the muzzle and choke seat. Tool marks, off-center cuts, or mystery roll marks suggest amateur choke work.
- Back out any installed tube. It should turn and seat cleanly. Stuck tubes and chewed threads are price levers.
- Peek under the fore-end at the gas ports and the gas cylinder area. Normal carbon is fine. Rock-hard fouling, gouges, or a cracked solder joint where the ring meets the barrel are reasons to move on or negotiate.
Receivers, triggers, and cycling feel
Both families use a cross-bolt safety at the rear of the trigger guard. When you handle a candidate, dry-cycle it a few times. You want a smooth pull to the rear, a distinct bolt lockup, and a consistent return.
- Trigger group fit: pins should sit flush and snug. Loose pins can hint at wear or mismatched parts.
- Carrier lift: press it and feel for smooth travel. Hang-ups often come from carbon or a tired spring.
- Ejector and extractor: with a dummy shell, hand-cycle and watch for repeatable ejection.
Finish wear on edges is normal. Deep scratches around the loading port usually just speak to hard field use, not a fatal flaw.
Magnum markings explained
The 11-87 12 gauge was engineered to run 2 3/4 and 3 inch shells. The 11-87 12 gauge Super Magnum adds 3 1/2 inch and uses the activator for light loads, removed for heavy ones.
On the 1100 side, you will encounter Magnum-marked models built around 3 inch shells with matching barrels. The safest rule is also the simplest: read the barrel and receiver markings and run ammunition that matches the barrel’s chamber length. When in doubt, check the manual before you shoot.
Stocks and fit checks
Classic walnut is common on 1100s. The 11-87 era brings walnut, laminates, and plenty of synthetics. None of that changes the gas system, but it does change balance and feel.
- Length of pull: the bead should not vanish low at the mount, and your nose should not crowd your thumb.
- Comb height: these guns shine when you see a flat rib picture.
- Wood inspection: look for hairline cracks at the rear of the fore-end and at the wrist behind the receiver. Small stabilized cracks are fine for range work but should affect price. On synthetics, check sling studs and buttpad screws.
Used-gun inspection checklist
- O-ring present and pliable, not flattened or cracked
- Magazine tube smooth, no deep rust or grooves where the piston rides
- Gas ports clear of solid carbon
- Piston parts move freely, no galling or mushroomed edges
- 11-87 Super Magnum: barrel seal activator present and correctly configured for your loads
- Chokes: correct system, threads clean, tube seats fully by hand
- Barrel ring solder joint intact, no cracks
- Forend interior clean, not burned or oil-soaked
- Receiver pins flush and snug
- Action cycles smoothly and consistently, safety functions properly
None of these are automatic dealbreakers. Parts are widely available, and many issues vanish with a proper cleaning and a couple of small parts. Every red flag is simply a price conversation.
Maintenance rhythm and reliability
- Clean the gas system on a schedule that matches your shooting, not obsessively but before fouling turns lacquer-hard.
- Use a thin film of oil. Heavy oil slows the action and collects residue.
- Replace the O-ring proactively. One fresh seal each season is cheap insurance. Keep spares with your choke tubes.
- Match ammo to the barrel. The 11-87 12 gauge handles 2 3/4 and 3 inch. The Super Magnum has its own activator routine. The 1100 should be run exactly as its barrel is marked.
- Annual inspection by a qualified shop can catch wear patterns early.
Official resources worth bookmarking:
- Model 1100 and 11-87 Owner’s Manual
- RemArms official site
- Search Remington for 1100 and 11-87
Which one to buy
- If you split time between target loads and 3 inch hunting shells in 12 gauge, the 11-87 is the easy button.
- If you crave classic walnut feel and shoot mostly target ammo, a clean 1100 is a joy.
- If 3 1/2 inch shells are on the menu, look at the 11-87 12 gauge Super Magnum and learn its activator routine.
- Fixed-choke 1100s can be great buys if the choke matches your use. If you want flexibility, pick a RemChoke barrel from the start.
I think of the 1100 as the friendly classic and the 11-87 as the practical all-rounder. Keep either one clean, lightly oiled, matched to the right ammo, and in fresh O-rings, and they will run for a lifetime.
